A Day in Mawlynnong – The Cleanest Village in Asia

Imagine being awarded with laurels and accolades for ‘Not Being Dirty’? Well, this is the exact reason why Mawlynnong , a recluse in Meghalaya shot to instant fame.

Mawlynnong, a little quaint village nestled peacefully in the heart of Meghalaya, East Khasi Hills District near the borders of Bangladesh , proudly adorns the crown of ‘Asia’s Cleanest Village’. This title was awarded to Mawlynnong in the year 2003 by the Travel Magazine, ‘Discover India‘.

The Entry Point of Mawlynnong welcomes and warns you with a clear sign. You are entering God’s own garden!

Both of us had individually visited the village earlier. But this time we were determined to ‘feel’ and ‘experience’ the vibe of the coveted village. Thus began our journey towards ‘offbeat Meghalaya’ and very soon we found ourselves on the roads driving towards our first destination, ‘Mawlynnong’.

Journey from Guwahati to Mawlynnong

The distance from Guwahati to Mawlynnong via Shillong is about 170 km and takes around 5 and a half hours by road.

The route from Shillong winds over misty green hills. Clouds afloat in gorges below. Streams flowing alongside glisten like silver ribbons. A little further up the town of Pynursla, there is a fork off the main road. The narrow village road now becomes a corridor through a wall of green.

A Snapshot from Google Maps on Entering Mawlynnong Corridors! Can you feel the greenery yet?

While our vehicle wove around meandering alleys sights of lofty grasslands filled our vision. We were informed that it was the most lucrative crop of Mawlynnong – the Broom Grass. What a fitting prelude to the ‘Shangri-La of the North-East India’ swearing by its ethos of cleanliness.

As we etched closer to the village, an agreeably buzzing sound filled the forested surroundings. Touted to emanate from an insect that has apparently never been seen, the sound bore a mighty resonance. A faint echolalia of the sound rummed into our ears throughout our stay at Mawlynnong.

Our Stay at Mawlynnong! A Simple yet Cozy Cottage. . .

It was well passed sunset when we reached our homestay. We decided to give the bon-fire a miss and snuggled into our soft cozy bed for a good night’s sleep.

Exploring Mawlynnong

Wandering on a whim during the wee hours of the morning is an ideal way to get your bearings. As we walked through the bucolic pedestrian paradise, we were greeted by the first rays of the sun falling seamlessly upon the gorgeous marigolds and periwinkles that sprouted effortlessly from the sides of the roads.

Exploring Mawlynnong during the wee hours of the morning!

Beautiful Streets of the village adorned with plants and naturally growing flowers!

One can find ‘Conical Wicker Baskets’ in front of every house and in every turn of the streets!

A Local Cleaning the Streets of Mawlynnong – a common sight in this uncommon village!

The cobbled paths were strewn with conical wicker baskets, often fastened to trees and ramparts of houses. Not only did the roads gleam, even the dustbins were disarming. At every bend, we would sight upon a local cleaning the sides of the roads.

Pink and White Bougainvillea Drape the Patios of All Houses! – Aren’t they just lovely to look at???

Then there are the natural basins of rainwater harvesting in front yards of the houses. Bougainvillea and Orchids draped the patios of all houses. It was lovely!

Interaction with the Mawlynnong Munchkins

On the first encounter, the kids smiled gingerly at us while trying to hide behind one another. But once we cozied up to them, they broke into infectious peals of laughter. We even managed to strike a conversation with one.

Interacting with the local kids! They are a friendly lot. . .

Little Munchkins cozying up to Maddy. . .

Little Stalin narrated how tourists from the hot and dirty plains of India walking along their village with cameras slung on their necks were a common sight. Some of them, determined to carry back every moment of their travel keep a running commentary going – they are recording videos that they will presumably inflict upon their friends and family back home!

Luckily for us, we could delight in the isolation; for it was still early and we had the entire village to ourselves. We were greeted by a sumptuous breakfast in one of the homestays.

The Scottish Touch

After covering three quarter of our tour of the village, we came upon an Episcopalian Church exuding serene grace. We stretched our necks to get a full view of the gothic spires while beguiling bunches of flowers swayed in its façade, reminiscent of the Scottish countryside.

We came upon an ‘Episcopalian Church’ exuding serene grace. . .

After a brief stint at the chapel, it was time for some adrenaline rush. We scaled the rickety skyview – a lofty bamboo structure built in the highest tree in the forest without any nails to hold it together. Our efforts at holding ourselves steady at the platform unfurled a panaroma of Bangladesh plains against the backdrop of the blue sky and spools of cotton candy clouds.

The Rickety Skyview unfurls a panaromic view of Bangladesh plains against the backdrop of blue sky and cotton candy clouds!

We returned back to our guest house to freshen up and by 9:30 am and soon we were heading towards the Riwai Root Bridge.

The Stunning Riwai Root Bridge

In Riwai village, located about 2 km away from Mawlynnong is the coveted natural root bridge.

Way to the ‘Living Root Bridge’, Riwai. Another Marvel Awaits!!!

We trudged along a rocky stone hewn path to reach the ‘Living Root Bridge’

The Living Root Bridge – Indeed a Marvel of Nature!

Pro-Tip: Up your fitness game a notch before you decide to mini-trek to the living root bridge.

We trudged along a long flight of rocky, roughly hewn stone steps. But once we reached the spot we were greeted by a surreal sight! This is straight out of the ‘Lord of Rings’ – I exclaimed! The comparision is unavoidable for anyone familiar with J.R.R. Toliken’s work.

History and Mystery Behind the Formation of the Root Bridge

The bridge is a natural viaduct composed of an intricate artwork of entwined living roots of rubber trees on the either side of the river. The tree—a relative of the banyan— sends out aerial roots. These roots were directed, in their slow growth over the decades, towards each other, until finally they joined to form the 30 metre long bridge.

It was an ingenuous local solution to bridge the hurdle of crossing the rivers of Meghalaya while fostering uninterrupted trade between places.

There is a plaque, unveiled in November 2016 by Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn of Thailand that announces the names of the villagers of the Khongsar, Khongthorem and Khongliar clans of Nowhet village, now long dead, who planted the trees on both sides of the Thyllong River, the “sacred river or river of the gods”, around 1840 .

To date, villages weave a fresh root upon the mesh if they chance upon one, fortifying the lattice of the live roots.

As we tried to capture the essence of the living root bridge, I felt a flutter of wings on my neck! To my surprise it was a kaleidoscope of vibrant butterflies. Could the place get any more magical?

Gradually, tourists had started to pour in at the site. We left the selfie takers on the bridge to their business,  and proceeded to discover the rest of Mawlynnong.

Parting Thoughts

Mawlynnong, the serene spic and span village is liberated from contemporary trappings. Conveniently shielded from the humdrums of a regular world, the drawcards are the afternoon siesta and a nightlife confined to the vistas of the massive moon shining like a royal against the dark blue star studded skies.

A potpourri of culture, heritage, beauty and cleanliness, this little village amazes in ways more than one!

During our stay, we could feel the faint echoes of melodies wafting from the houses. The Khasi settlement had embraced the English language with panache. Every soul there hums in abandon. . .